Mike Norman's Engine MOD's How-To 5/26/2010 ------------------------------------------- Start with the KISS philosophy. I have built many radical engines that lasted, a few didn't. But, the ones that lasted forever (they might still be out there somewhere) used this formula: Bottom End: Set bearing clearances per the book, with one exception; make the rod bearings the next size looser for better oil flow to the rod bearings. Balancing is only necessary of you change the pistons to non-Kawasaki pistons and/or remove the counterbalancer. Crank polishing and "crank mods". Call Armando at Custom Crankshaft Repair, 612 S. Railroad Ave, San Mateo, CA 94401 (650) 342-0568. He's a bit flakey sometimes so you have to stay on him, but he's the best. Tell him I sent you or he may not answer or call back. "Case-Mod". This was just widening the small slot located right where the drain bolt comes into the oil pan area right at a divider wall. It allows for more oil to return to the sump after hard braking so as not to uncover (cause air cavitation) the oil pick-up. Kawasaki has done something a little different on the 2008+ engines that I "THINK" will just bolt on to the bottom of the case where the orginal sump cover is. Just order the "Cover, 1st Filter" Part Number 14091-1575. It should bolt on in place of the original sump cover and is a deeper sump to keep the pick-up submerged at all times. Always replace the cam chain and "bow" guide. The plastic guides will be up to you. If you see any cracking or wear grooves it would be best to replace them. That's it for the bottom end. Top-end: Replace the rings. Hone the cylinders with a 320 grit flex-hone and the new rings will set right in. Clean the pistons with ultra-fine Scotch Brite on the skirts and around the ring lands. Make sure there is no carbon IN the ring lands. Use a wire-brush to remove the carbon from the top of the pistons. Clean the parts THOROUGHLY. Remove the valves. Decarbonize the head and valves. Make sure the seats don't have pits or burn marks. Make sure the valves don't have cupped seat faces (the intake is the worst for this). Replace the valves if necessary. K&L Supply sells (I think Vesrah) replacements that are better and cheaper than the OEM valves - but don't let my boss hear me say that. for longevity ofthe valve train, I have a special valve seat profile I use that keeps the valves alive longer and flows better. If you get a valve job, you will need to "tip" the valve stems shorter by the amount your valves have sunk into the head or you will never get them adjusted. Cam Timing is not crucial, but can get optimum power if you take the time to set them right. Will you notice? Doubful unless you're running for the front of a pack of equivallent motors. Leave the sprockets on the cams and re-time thm using the alignment marks and call it good. If you ever getthe engine on the dyno, and you see the power curve, you can adjust the cams to change the curve then. Porting. This is where ALL the magic with these engines occurs. All the power gains (well 85% of them) occur with the right porting. 90% of the power losses occur with the wrong porting. I have seen many heads with the wrong porting. Remember KISS. If you heads are not ported, make sure you go to someone that ports the right way. I still build engines. If you follow the addage (You can get the work Fast, Cheap and Good - Pick only 2). I am not fast anymore. Probably 1 to 2 months since I only work on this stuf on a few weekends at a time. If that works for you, I can help you with just about everything you need. Follow up ------------------------------------------- Bearings to Order: Qty Part Number Description 4 92028-1582 Bushing, Crankshaft, Yellow #1 & #3 2 92028-1586 Bushing, Crankshaft, Yellow #2 4 92028-1422 Bushing, Balancer, Blue 4 92028-1494 Bushing, Connecting, Brown These are the correct bearings you will need. Kawasaki uses a more simplified bearing selection process than any other manufacturer. 99.9% of their engine parts are made to the same spec. It's very rare you will find a "code" stamped on the crank, rods or cases. In fact, in over 25 years of opening up Kawasakis, I have only seen one code ever. So, I know they exist and I am looking in the right place. Therefore, I am almost (99.999999999%) certain you will be safe ordering these. If you wish to wait until it's apart, you can verify using the chart in the Service Manual. As for gasket sets. Kawasaki and Yamaha haven't caught on to the trend that Honda and Suzuki have set yet. So, you'll have to order everthing one-by-one. Kawasaki does offer the parts catalog online though. So, that makes life a bit easier. Go to: http://www.kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.aspx?strContentUrl=/SITE/VIVEHICLEINFORMATION/VICHOOSEVEHICLE.ASP